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Selena Gomez's Marquise Ring: Why the Shape Is Exploding
by Ankit Koshiya on Sep 29, 2026
Short answer: Selena Gomez's engagement ring, widely reported as a marquise-cut diamond, put a bright spotlight on a shape that was already rising. The marquise is a long, pointed-oval cut that covers more of the finger per carat than almost any other shape: it looks larger than its weight, flatters the hand and has a vintage, regal character. With lab grown diamonds and moissanite, the look is more affordable than ever, as long as you know how to check for the bow tie and protect the points.
- What it is: the marquise is a 58-facet elongated brilliant with pointed ends, also called the navette, French for "little boat".
- Maximum finger coverage per carat: a marquise faces up larger than a round or cushion of the same weight, and fancy shapes usually cost less per carat than rounds.
- A trend with a face: elongated shapes were already climbing; the widely reported Gomez ring simply accelerated interest.
- Watch the bow tie: a dark shadow across the center is the cut's main flaw; well-cut stones keep it subtle.
- Modern styling: east-west settings and yellow gold make the marquise feel fresh rather than dated.
The Look Everyone's Talking About
When Selena Gomez's engagement photos circulated, jewelry watchers recognised the shape instantly: a marquise, the dramatic boat-shaped cut with pointed ends that was hugely popular in the 1970s and 1980s before it quietly slipped out of fashion. Its return as a headline engagement ring signalled something bigger than one celebrity's taste. Fashion moves in cycles, and the marquise has come back as a shape whose time has simply come again.
What makes the moment interesting is that the marquise was already rising before the headlines. Elongated shapes such as oval, emerald, pear and marquise have been gaining ground for years as buyers chase finger coverage and a less common silhouette. The ring everyone talked about did not start the wave; it gave the wave a face. As with any celebrity ring, we describe the publicly reported details in general terms and keep the focus on the shape itself.
Anatomy of a Marquise
The marquise is a modified brilliant cut with 58 facets, an elliptical body and two pointed ends. A popular legend traces it to 18th-century France, where it was supposedly shaped to echo the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. Jewelers still repeat the story, true or not. Those pointed ends are the cut's glory and its weak spot: they create the dramatic length, but they also need protective settings, because points can chip if knocked.
Classic proportions are long and lean, with length-to-width ratios of about 1.75 to 2.25. Too short and the stone looks stubby; too long and the center can look dark. Like all fancy shapes, the marquise has no single official ideal cut grade the way a round brilliant does, so your eyes are the final judge.
Length-to-width ratio guide
| Ratio | Look on the hand | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| Below 1.75 | Wider and softer, closer to an oval | Those who want a gentler outline |
| 1.75 to 2.00 | Balanced and classic | Most buyers; a safe, timeless choice |
| 2.00 to 2.25 | Long, slim and dramatic | Maximum finger elongation |
| Above 2.25 | Very narrow; center may look darker | East-west or fashion designs |
Why the Marquise Is Having a Moment
Three forces are coming together. First, value: the marquise faces up larger per carat than rounds, ovals or cushions, so buyers get maximum visual size for their budget, and fancy shapes already tend to cost less per carat than rounds. Second, individuality: after years of oval popularity, many couples want a shape that stands out in a group photo. Third, the vintage revival: the marquise's regal, old-Hollywood character fits the wider return of antique and vintage-inspired jewelry.
Lab grown diamonds add fuel to all three. A marquise that would have been a serious splurge as a mined stone becomes attainable as a lab grown stone: larger, cleaner or simply less expensive. When the most dramatic-looking shape is also one of the most accessible, a boom follows naturally.
The Bow Tie: The One Thing to Check
Every elongated brilliant (marquise, oval and pear) can show a "bow tie": a dark, bow-tie-shaped shadow across the stone's center where light leaks out instead of returning to the eye. In a marquise, with its long body and pointed ends, the effect can be stronger than in an oval. A faint bow tie is normal and often barely visible once the stone is set; a harsh black band across the middle is a deal-breaker.
How to shop around it: look at the stone in person or in high-quality video, tilt it under different lighting, and compare several stones side by side. Well-cut marquises with balanced proportions keep the bow tie subtle. If you are buying online, choose a jeweler that shows real video of the actual stone or, for a made-to-order piece, one that selects stones with the bow tie in mind.
Tip: Watch a video of the stone rocking slowly from side to side. A good marquise "breathes": the dark area moves and changes as the stone tilts. A bow tie that stays black from every angle is the one to avoid.
Marquise vs. Dutch Marquise
As the marquise has grown in popularity, a close cousin has appeared alongside it: the Dutch marquise. It keeps the long, pointed outline but uses a different facet pattern, with flatter sides and a more geometric, slightly hexagonal look. Many people describe it as a cross between a marquise and an antique rose cut.
- Classic marquise: curved sides and brilliant faceting, giving lots of sparkle and a soft, flowing outline.
- Dutch marquise: straighter sides and broader facets, giving a calmer, more architectural, vintage feel.
- Which to choose: pick the classic for maximum sparkle; pick the Dutch marquise for something rarer and more unusual. See examples in our Dutch marquise cut jewelry.
How to Style It: Settings, Metals and Pairings
The marquise's two big styling moves right now are the east-west setting and yellow gold. Set sideways across the finger, the marquise becomes a modern, fashion-forward piece that feels less traditional and more editorial. In yellow gold, its vintage soul comes forward, and the warm metal flatters the cut's old-Hollywood character.
Protect those points. V-prongs at each tip are the standard: they shield the most vulnerable part of the stone while emphasising its length. A bezel or half-bezel gives maximum protection and a sleek, modern line. For bands, a simple pavé shank lets the center stone dominate, while a plain gold band keeps the whole ring feeling vintage and quiet.
Metal choice changes the mood. Yellow gold warms the stone and leans vintage; white gold makes it look crisp, icy and modern; rose gold adds a soft, romantic glow. At Ivevar, every design is available in 10K, 14K or 18K gold. 14K is a popular everyday balance of durability and colour, 18K gives the richest tone, and 10K is the hardest-wearing and most affordable.
Think about the wedding band early, too. Because a marquise is long and pointed, a straight band often sits with a small gap beside it. A curved or "V" shaped band follows the outline neatly, while a chevron band echoes the pointed shape for a stacked, coordinated look.
Setting ideas that suit a marquise
- Classic solitaire with V-prongs: clean and timeless, with the points fully protected.
- East-west solitaire: the stone sits sideways for a modern, low-profile look.
- Toi et moi: a marquise paired with a second stone, often a pear or round, for a personal two-stone design.
- Halo: a frame of small stones makes the center look even larger and adds sparkle.
- Nature-inspired: marquises look like leaves or petals, so they suit floral and vine designs beautifully.
Shopping Smart: Lab Grown Marquise
If any shape was made for lab grown, it is the marquise. Because fancy shapes tend to cost less per carat than rounds and the marquise faces up larger than most, a lab grown marquise delivers one of the most impressive size-to-budget ratios in the jewelry case. That is the real engine behind the trend: the shape of the moment is also one of the smartest buys.
A lab grown diamond is chemically, physically and optically the same as a mined diamond, grown using the CVD or HPHT process, and many come with an IGI certificate grading the 4Cs. Buy it the way you would buy any fine diamond: from a maker who provides independent certification, with attention to cut quality over sheer size, in a setting that protects the points. Choose the ratio you love, check the bow tie, and let the shape do the talking.
Choosing the 4Cs for a marquise
- Cut: prioritise symmetry (the two halves should mirror each other) and a well-controlled bow tie.
- Colour: colour can gather slightly at the points, so a near-colorless grade is worth it in white gold; yellow gold is more forgiving.
- Clarity: look for a stone that is clean to the naked eye, and avoid inclusions near the tips, where they can weaken the points.
- Carat: compare length and width in millimetres. A marquise of modest weight can look far larger than its carats suggest.
Shop the styles in this guide
Lab Grown Diamond or Moissanite Marquise?
Both make beautiful marquise rings. A lab grown diamond is a real diamond, scoring 10 on the Mohs hardness scale. Moissanite is a different gemstone, silicon carbide, scoring 9.25; its refractive index of about 2.65 (versus about 2.42 for diamond) gives it a more colourful, rainbow-like sparkle that suits the long, dramatic marquise outline.
Choose a lab grown diamond if you want a true diamond with a grading report and classic white brilliance. Choose moissanite if you want the most size and fire for your budget and love a livelier, more colourful sparkle. Both are hard enough for daily wear, and both need the same protective setting for the points.
| Feature | Lab grown diamond | Moissanite |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | Real diamond (carbon) | Silicon carbide, a separate gemstone |
| Hardness (Mohs) | 10 | 9.25 |
| Sparkle | White brilliance with balanced fire | Stronger, more colourful fire |
| Certification | Often IGI graded on the 4Cs | Not graded on the diamond scale |
Who the Marquise Suits Best
The marquise is a strong choice for many hands and personalities, but it shines brightest in a few situations.
- Shorter or wider fingers: the long outline draws the eye along the finger, making it look longer and slimmer.
- Budget-conscious buyers who want presence: few shapes give as much visible size per carat.
- Vintage lovers: in yellow gold with milgrain or engraving, a marquise feels like an heirloom.
- Fashion-forward wearers: an east-west or toi et moi marquise looks fresh and editorial.
- Those who want something different: the marquise is still far less common than the round or oval, so it stands out.
It may be less ideal for someone who works with their hands all day and dislikes taking rings off, unless the stone is in a bezel. Very small hands can also suit a slightly shorter ratio, which keeps the stone from extending past the knuckle.
Elongated Shapes Compared
Shopping elongated? Here is how the contenders stack up.
| Shape | Finger coverage | Bow tie risk | Character |
|---|---|---|---|
| Marquise | Largest per carat | Moderate to high | Regal, vintage, dramatic |
| Oval | Very large | Moderate | Modern classic, soft |
| Pear | Large | Moderate | Romantic, distinctive |
| Emerald | Moderate | Low (step cut) | Quiet luxury, architectural |
Wearing and Caring for a Marquise
A marquise is perfectly suitable for everyday wear when it is set well. A few habits keep it looking its best.
- Mind the tips: take the ring off for gym sessions, gardening and heavy lifting, when the points are most likely to be knocked.
- Check the prongs: have a jeweler inspect the V-prongs about once a year, since they do the most important job.
- Clean gently: warm water, mild soap and a soft brush restore sparkle quickly.
- Plan the band: a marquise often leaves a gap next to a straight band. A curved or contoured band, or a bridal set designed together, gives a neat fit.
Shop Our Best Sellers
Swipe to see more → | View all best sellers
Ready to find your marquise? Browse our lab diamond marquise collection for certified lab grown stones and rings, explore moissanite marquise designs for maximum fire at a lower budget, or see all marquise cut jewelry. Ivevar offers 10K, 14K and 18K gold, custom designs, virtual appointments, free worldwide shipping and 30-day easy returns.
FAQ
What is a marquise cut diamond?
A 58-facet elongated brilliant with pointed ends, also called the navette. It is one of the largest-looking diamond shapes per carat.
Is Selena Gomez's ring a marquise?
Media coverage widely reported a marquise-cut center stone. As with all celebrity rings, we describe publicly reported details in general terms and keep the focus on the shape itself.
Does a marquise look bigger than a round?
Yes. Its elongated outline covers more of the finger, so a marquise typically faces up larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight.
What is the bow tie effect in a marquise?
A dark shadow across the stone's center caused by light leakage. Faint bow ties are normal; harsh ones signal poor cutting and should be avoided.
Are marquise diamonds cheaper?
Per carat, fancy shapes including the marquise generally cost less than round brilliants, and lab grown marquise diamonds stretch a budget further still.
How should a marquise be set?
With V-prongs protecting the pointed ends at minimum; bezels and half-bezels offer maximum protection. East-west settings are a popular modern option.
Is the marquise just a fad?
The marquise has moved in and out of fashion for centuries. Its current rise is backed by real value and design strengths, but like any distinctive shape, choose it because you love it, not because it is trending.
What is the best length-to-width ratio for a marquise?
Most buyers prefer about 1.75 to 2.25. Lower ratios look softer and wider; higher ratios look slimmer and more dramatic.
Is a marquise good for everyday wear?
Yes, with a protective setting. V-prongs or a bezel guard the points, and lab grown diamond (10 on the Mohs scale) and moissanite (9.25) are both hard enough for daily life.
What is a Dutch marquise?
A variation with the same long, pointed outline but straighter sides and broader, more geometric facets, giving a vintage, architectural look.
Sources
- Diamond Shape Guide — GIA
- Fancy Shape Diamonds — IGI
- Engagement Ring Trends — The Knot
- Celebrity Engagement Rings — Brides
- Jewelry Trends — JCK
Aumsri Pradhan is the founder of Ivevar Luxury, a Surat-based fine jewelry brand that designs and handcrafts lab grown diamond and moissanite jewelry in its own workshop. She leads the brand's design and customer experience, from engagement rings and bridal sets to custom pieces made to each client's story. Through the Ivevar blog, she shares practical guidance on lab grown diamonds, moissanite, diamond grading and ring design to help buyers choose with confidence.
