1.03 carat oval cut fancy vivid blue lab grown diamond
Lab Grown Diamonds

Oval Lab Grown Diamonds: Ratio, Bow Tie and Size Guide

by Aumsri Pradhan on Sep 28, 2026

Quick answer: When choosing an oval lab grown diamond, focus on three things: a length-to-width ratio you like (1.35 to 1.50 is the most popular range), a light and faint bow tie rather than a dark one, and Excellent polish and symmetry. Because ovals do not get an official cut grade, real photos or video are the best way to judge their sparkle.

Ovals are one of the most popular lab grown diamond shapes in the US because they look larger than rounds of the same weight and flatter the hand. Here is how to pick a great one.

Oval Length-to-Width Ratio

The ratio is the stone's length divided by its width. It controls how slim or wide the oval looks.

Ratio Look Who it suits
1.25 to 1.35 Wider, softer oval Those who want a gentle, near-round look
1.35 to 1.50 Classic oval Most buyers; balanced and elegant
1.50 to 1.70 Long, slim oval Longer fingers or a dramatic, elongating look

You can calculate the ratio from the measurements on the IGI report: for example, 9.0 x 6.4 mm is a 1.41 ratio.

What Is the Bow Tie Effect?

Many ovals show a darker area across the center shaped like a bow tie. It happens where light does not reflect back as strongly. Almost every oval has some bow tie; what matters is how noticeable it is.

  • Faint or light bow tie: adds contrast and depth. Good.
  • Dark, heavy bow tie: looks like a black band and dulls the stone. Avoid.

A grading report does not describe bow ties, so always check a photo or video, ideally showing the stone moving.

How Big Does an Oval Look?

Carat Approx. size (1.40 ratio)
1 ct about 7.7 x 5.5 mm
1.5 ct about 8.8 x 6.3 mm
2 ct about 9.7 x 6.9 mm
3 ct about 11.1 x 7.9 mm

Sizes vary with depth and ratio. A well-cut oval looks noticeably larger face-up than a round of the same weight.

1.03 carat oval cut fancy vivid blue lab grown diamondShown: 1.03 Ct Oval Cut Fancy Vivid Blue Lab Grown Diamond, VS2, IGI Certified

Best Color and Clarity for Ovals

  • Color: ovals can show a little more color at the tips, so G or better works well in white metal; H is fine in yellow or rose gold.
  • Clarity: VS2 is usually eye-clean in a brilliant-cut oval.
  • Depth: around 58% to 63% often looks balanced; very deep ovals look smaller for their weight.

Best Settings for an Oval Diamond

  • Solitaire: shows off the outline; a classic for engagement rings.
  • Hidden halo: adds sparkle under the stone while keeping a clean top view.
  • East-west: the oval sits sideways for a modern look.
  • Four vs six prongs: six prongs add security; four show more of the stone.

Oval Lab Grown Diamonds at Ivevar

We cut, set and polish in our own Surat workshop and share photos or a video before your order ships, with free worldwide shipping and 30-day easy returns. Browse oval lab grown diamonds or read our oval engagement ring guide.

Shop Oval Lab Grown Diamonds

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Swipe to see more → | View all oval diamonds

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best ratio for an oval diamond?

1.35 to 1.50 is the most popular. The best ratio is the one whose outline you like most on your hand.

Can I avoid the bow tie completely?

Rarely. Aim for a faint, light bow tie, which most people find attractive.

Do ovals look bigger than rounds?

Yes. A 1 carat oval usually has a larger face-up area than a 1 carat round.

Is an oval lab diamond good for everyday wear?

Yes. Ovals have no sharp corners, which makes them durable and comfortable.

The Bottom Line

Pick an oval ratio you love, avoid dark bow ties, and choose Excellent polish and symmetry. Confirm with real photos or video, and you will have an oval that looks big, bright and elegant.

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Aumsri Pradhan, Ivevar Luxury

Author Bio

Aumsri Pradhan

Founder, Ivevar Luxury


Aumsri Pradhan is the founder of Ivevar Luxury, a Surat-based fine jewelry brand that designs and handcrafts lab grown diamond and moissanite jewelry in its own workshop. She leads the brand's design and customer experience, from engagement rings and bridal sets to custom pieces made to each client's story. Through the Ivevar blog, she shares practical guidance on lab grown diamonds, moissanite, diamond grading and ring design to help buyers choose with confidence.

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